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Plumeria Pruning Q
17 years 11 months ago #1227
by jencklein
Plumeria Pruning Q was created by jencklein
Hello, I am new to the Mulch. I need to prune a very large plumeria. I have found lots of info on where to cut the branches for a cutting that will root (i.e., 12 inches below the fork), but I have not been able to find anything that will tell me the safest place to prune the branch so that the existing mother plant will continue to grow and branch attractively. Can anyone offer advice on where to cut so I can form a bushier tree, and how to care for the cut so it doesn't rot? Do I just chop mid-branch or are there rules like pruning roses?
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17 years 11 months ago #1236
by walter
Replied by walter on topic Re:Plumeria Pruning Q
[b]Hello Jen, (hope that is ok)
I have several Plmeria plants. I have trimmed off braches where they were going the wrong direction with no problem. I have also cut a few of the ones that were getting too tall. I just cut them back. If they are too large, I use a 'pruning saw'.
For me, I pretty much just trim them where ever I feel is appopriate for my plant. I kind of look at the overall plant and 'bring it back' to where I would like it to be, shape wise. There are no 'eyes' like roses, I just more or less, and go by shape. The branch that gets cut ususally sends out new growth in about 4 to 6 weeks. Often it branches with two or three new shoots from where it was cut. This usually improves the overall look of the plant because it becomes bushier.
With the parts you cut off, they are quite easy to root. You can root almost any size, with in reason. But 'cuttings' less than 30" long (branched is ok) are usally best from my experience. You can root them down to about 12" long, but if you go much shorter it may not work as well.
For your cuttings, you should leave them in the shade for 4 to 7 days to let the cut heal. Apply some rooting hormone to the cut end -- "Rootone" or "Dip & Grow" will encourage new roots faster. Then put them in a very well draining mix, about 6" to 8" deep. I remove all of the leaves on my cuttings, they usually send out new leaves in about a month or so.
For the mix, I use "SUNSHINE CONTAINER MIX" in a blue bag, but I also ad about 25% more coarse sponge rock or pumice to the mix to keep it looser and more 'airy'. Water them but only water when they start to dry a little, you don't want to keep them wet!!! These containers should be placed in a warm area in your yard, next to a south wall is even better it reflects heat and light. If your cuttings are large, you may have to support them with a stake so they don't tip over. The larger ones I root in 5 gallon containers.[/b]
One last thing, you can pretty much 'prune' them almost any time of the year, but when it is warm they will send out new growth pretty fast. As for the cuttings you HAVE to do this when it is warm, so if you want to try cuttings you sould do it now, or WAIT to do it all next June.
I have several Plmeria plants. I have trimmed off braches where they were going the wrong direction with no problem. I have also cut a few of the ones that were getting too tall. I just cut them back. If they are too large, I use a 'pruning saw'.
For me, I pretty much just trim them where ever I feel is appopriate for my plant. I kind of look at the overall plant and 'bring it back' to where I would like it to be, shape wise. There are no 'eyes' like roses, I just more or less, and go by shape. The branch that gets cut ususally sends out new growth in about 4 to 6 weeks. Often it branches with two or three new shoots from where it was cut. This usually improves the overall look of the plant because it becomes bushier.
With the parts you cut off, they are quite easy to root. You can root almost any size, with in reason. But 'cuttings' less than 30" long (branched is ok) are usally best from my experience. You can root them down to about 12" long, but if you go much shorter it may not work as well.
For your cuttings, you should leave them in the shade for 4 to 7 days to let the cut heal. Apply some rooting hormone to the cut end -- "Rootone" or "Dip & Grow" will encourage new roots faster. Then put them in a very well draining mix, about 6" to 8" deep. I remove all of the leaves on my cuttings, they usually send out new leaves in about a month or so.
For the mix, I use "SUNSHINE CONTAINER MIX" in a blue bag, but I also ad about 25% more coarse sponge rock or pumice to the mix to keep it looser and more 'airy'. Water them but only water when they start to dry a little, you don't want to keep them wet!!! These containers should be placed in a warm area in your yard, next to a south wall is even better it reflects heat and light. If your cuttings are large, you may have to support them with a stake so they don't tip over. The larger ones I root in 5 gallon containers.[/b]
One last thing, you can pretty much 'prune' them almost any time of the year, but when it is warm they will send out new growth pretty fast. As for the cuttings you HAVE to do this when it is warm, so if you want to try cuttings you sould do it now, or WAIT to do it all next June.
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17 years 11 months ago #1240
by jencklein
Replied by jencklein on topic Re:Plumeria Pruning Q
Thank you! I was worried I would just have a tree full of stumps. Thanks for the good advice about how to pot the cuttings too- I don't know a lot about plumerias, but they are one of the only plants that are doing really well in my garden with the summers being 110 degrees. I will go forth and multiply my plumeria.
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17 years 11 months ago #1241
by walter
Replied by walter on topic Re:Plumeria Pruning Q
Hi Jen,
I did not mention feeding them. I use 'GRO-POWER' mine. I would not feed the 'cuttings' until they show growth, but those that are growing should respond to this or most general purpose plant foods (not miracle grow, you have to do it every two weeks too much work). To increase blooms ad some Sul Po Mag, just a little monthly starting in May, you should have a lot more and larger blooms
I did not mention feeding them. I use 'GRO-POWER' mine. I would not feed the 'cuttings' until they show growth, but those that are growing should respond to this or most general purpose plant foods (not miracle grow, you have to do it every two weeks too much work). To increase blooms ad some Sul Po Mag, just a little monthly starting in May, you should have a lot more and larger blooms
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17 years 11 months ago #1243
by jencklein
Replied by jencklein on topic Re:Plumeria Pruning Q
Thanks! Every once in a while a branch will go rotten for different reasons- how much healthy branch should I cut away with the infected part (ie 2", 3"?) and is there something to apply to the healthy cut or will it dry and heal on its own?
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17 years 11 months ago #1244
by walter
Replied by walter on topic Re:Plumeria Pruning Q
Yes, I have had a few do that too. Not really sure why, but I'm thinking maybe I keep some a litte too wet. They really do not like 'wet feet', loose soil mix and just a little dry between watering. If it is 'mushy' or shriveling, cut that off and for the cutting, cut that all off until you get to good firm wood, and it bleeds white. Then let that dry for a few days as in my first post, you should be fine. Also cut any bad stuff out of the 'parent' plant down to good wood also. You want to try to keep it from going farther into the plant. I don't think you need to treat it with anything just be sure it stays dry for a while, like no overhead water, etc. For me, the stronger more vigorus plants don't seem to be affeted so much, it is mostly the weaker ones. This is one reason I think feeding is good, it produces a more robust and stronger plant.
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