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Pruning Japanese Weeping Cherry

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14 years 3 months ago #2214 by Mopete
Hi,
I have a 14ish year old Japanese weeping cheery. Its about 8 or 9 ft tall and about the same wide at its widest. Last few years I have noticed more empty branches...does this mean I need to give it a better prune or is is sick with some fungus? Can I help it or do I need call a professional?
Thanks

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14 years 2 months ago #2216 by Julie Bawden-Davis
In order to do the best job possible answering your question, I need to ask you a few questions. You ask if the tree may have a fungus, but you don't indicate why you think that might be the case. Japanese Weeping Cherries are susceptible to root rot and require a well-draining soil. And root rot could lead to slower growth/less branching. What signs do you have that the plant may be experiencing a fungal problem? And how is the drainage? Did anything occur in the last couple of years regarding the drainage--for example, has the plant gotten more water than it used to? And lastly, how have you been pruning the plant?
Thanks

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14 years 2 months ago - 14 years 2 months ago #2217 by Mopete
Here is the tree three years ago (09) in bloom (thought I took a picture every year in this state but alas)...I don't have a current shot...but essentially there are a lot of branches without leaves and or little cherries. No I don't see any indications of disease...and neither did a friend on mine who knows a little about plants...nothing on the leaves or and the bark really. It is in a moist area but sits pretty high...that's not to say it roots do??? I prune it a little in the winter following instruction I got from our local nursery but quite frankly the tree is bigger and not sure how much I should prune it. It is a magnificent little tree and I would hate to lose it as the birds love it too.
So the main thing I have notices about it is the branches with no leave and thought it odd. Ill take a pic tonight if I remember and post.
Thanks for the response.
Mopete
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Last edit: 14 years 2 months ago by Mitch.

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14 years 2 months ago #2219 by Mitch
Hi Mopete,

It looks like the photo of the tree didn't get attached to your last post, sometimes the photos are too large for the webpage. If you email me the photo I can post if for you. Just email it to mitch@themulch.com and I'll get it.

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14 years 2 months ago #2220 by Mitch
Hi Mopete,

Thanks for sending me the photo - I've posted it here:
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14 years 2 months ago #2221 by Julie Bawden-Davis
Mopete,

Was the tree moved from 09 to present? It looks like it's in another location now. If so, it may have been shocked by the move. Or maybe the photo was just taken from a different angle and it hasn't been moved. If it was moved, trees are slow to show distress after trauma--so it could have looked okay for awhile and then started looking badly.

If the tree has not been moved, the fact that the branches don't have leaves is likely an indication of soil-borne fungal disease, which causes root rot. I see that the tree is located next to a green lawn. Is the lawn watered on a regular basis? This could be keeping the soil around the tree too wet. True, the tree was okay before and perhaps you've always watered the lawn, but remember that the younger a tree is, the less extensive the root system. It is likely that the root system has extended into the lawn and that portion of the roots is remaining constantly wet.

To try and diagnose the problem, take a hand trowel and dig down into the soil a foot or so out from the trunk of the tree. Do this in two or three places--such as near the lawn and on the other side. Look at any roots you find. Healthy roots should be tan/brown or white, not black and mushy. The latter is an indication of root rot. The soil around the tree should not be heavily compacted either, as this causes the soil to keep oxygen from the roots, which will cause rot and plant death. Your tree did well before, but over time, soil can become compacted, especially if the area is watered on a regular basis. Make sure that the sprinklers aren't hitting the area and add a 2-inch layer of mulch with a shredded bark--starting the mulch six inches from the trunk and going out to the drip line. This will keep the roots cool when the temperatures soar and cut down on the need to water, which is something you want to pull back on if you have root rot. Water only when the top 3 to 4 inches of soil has dried, and when you do so, water deeply.

At this point, I would not do any pruning. When a tree is stressed, it is a bad idea to prune, as it stresses the plant even further.

Check on the plants roots/your watering practices/soil compaction and let me know what you find. Depending on that I will have further suggestions.

Good Luck

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