Epiphyllum spp. (Orchid Cactus) - Monthly Plant Care Calendar

Written by Garden Jewels Nursery

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Plant Care by Garden Jewels Nursery. Epis are very easy to grow. They thrive on neglect, but reward you with a little effort. They bloom once a year and the flowers last from 1-5 days. More filtered sunshine light is better than less to grow flowers April through June. Less water is better than more to avoid root rot. Never let roots become bone dry. Less fertilizer is better than more. Begin fertilizing the first of February using 0-10-10 or 2-10-10 every 2 to 4 weeks until the flowers are gone. July and September feed with 10-10-10. Protect from snails and slugs. Watch for scale and mealy bug. If you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

Here's what you should be doing each month of the year for this plant in Sunset Zones 20, 21, 22, 23 & 24 or USDA zone 10b: Find Your Climate Zone.

Click the link to the month to go directly or scroll through the whole year:

January - February - March - April - May - June - July - August - September - October - November - December

January

BUY

You need to keep an eye on your plants as this could be a rainy time of the year. Epis don't like to be wet. This is a quiet time in the garden. Plants are resting preparing for the blooming season. We usually don't buy cuttings this time of year, but plants can always be purchased.

PLANT

Winter months' are the least appropriate for planting cuttings and re-potting. Unless you are in the mildest of areas where growing conditions continue during this season, hold off planting new cuttings. Usually cuttings can be successfully stored in a cool, dark, damp place till warmer weather arrives. The same recommendation applies to re-potting. If a plant shows signs of stress it is likely due to cold weather and will rectify its appearance the following spring. If however you feel the plant is suffering from a waterlogged root system due to poor pot drainage or excessive rainfall, remove the plant from the pot and inspect the root system. When a root mass has rotted away from water or frost the best remedy is to remove the roots completely. As long a the plant remains in a humid environment it will survive out of the pot until planting season returns. Store the plant as you would un-rooted cuttings.

FERTILIZE

Refrain from fertilizing your mature Epis this month. Now, if you have young plants that most likely will not bloom in the spring you can continue to feed them with a balanced fertilizer e.g. 10-10-10 or 14-14-14 to encourage growth.

WATER

Epis use little water. Place a small flat rock on your mix and check it weekly. Turn it over and see if it is moist or not. If it is wet do not water. If it is not wet continue to test for watering by sticking a finger an inch or two into the mix. If it feels damp don't water. If it feels dry water until you see it drain out the bottom of the container. Mist between waterings when the weather is hot and dry.

PRUNE

It is important that you continue to groom your plants. If you were diligent when your plants stopped blooming at the end of the growing season, then you can take a well deserved rest. Remember, your Epi will let you know which branches need to be removed. Remove all dead plant material by breaking off branches or using sterilized shears.

PROTECT

Be alert to the weather. You must protect your Epis from frost and hail. You can protect your plants by insulating your growing area with the heaviest mill clear plastic you can find. Remember – cold weather is a good thing. It enables your plants to lapse into dormancy which is necessary to produce blooms in the spring.

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

If you are insulating your plantings or “winterizing” them, you are also creating an environment for vermin and their friends. These pests will eat or devour tender growth. You may have to use poison bait and or rodent traps. Good Luck.

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

If you are insulating your plantings or “winterizing” them, you are also creating an environment for vermin and their friends. These pests will eat or devour tender growth. You may have to use poison bait and or rodent traps. Good Luck.

GardenJewelsNursery.com Garden Jewels Nursery had it's official Grand Opening August of 2009.  We have two home based nurseries in the Point Loma area of San Diego.  Each nursery has it's own specialties.  One of our locations grows and sells succulents, cacti, Clivia, Philodenrums.  At any given time this location could have a mulitude of different plants.  Our second garden nursery is filled with Epiphyllums, Plumerias and Cymbidiums. We have been growing and propagatting our plants for over 30 years.  In 2008 we became State Certified to grow and sell plants and plant products. Visit our website GardenJewelsNursery.com, email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com or call us at 619.987.6251.

TRANSPLANT

Winter months are the least appropriate for planting cuttings and re-potting. You should be able to store any unspotted cuttings in a cool, dark, damp place until warmer weather arrives. If you feel that your plant is suffering from too much water and that the roots might be rotting, then you need to remove the plant from the pot. You then need to completely remove the roots. As long as you keep your Epi in a humid environment it will survive out of the pot until planting season. You should store this plant just like you would unrooted cuttings.

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Provide as much light for your epies as possible during the winter months. However, epies do not want direct sunlight. Remember – if you need to cover your plants during a rain – if possible remove this layer as soon as practical to allow more light for your epies.

February

BUY

Now is the time to buy plants that will be blooming in May ... just in time for Mother's Day. If you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

PLANT

Your Epi needs partial shade inland but full sun along the coast. Therefore, purchased plants prefer East-Facing Partial Shade. This occurs on an east-facing porch, under an east-facing overhang, or to the east of a house, wall, or tree. Cool morning sun shines into these areas, but they are protected from the burning hot sun of midday and afternoon hours. Plant your bare-rooted Epi in a coarse mix and pot that well drain fast. Wait two weeks to water. Epis particularly like hanging baskets. If you have questions, please do not hesitate to give our Nursery a call at 619.987.6251 or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com.

FERTILIZE

Begin feeding mature Epis (those that have bloomed or will this year) with half strength 0-10-10 or 2-10-10 liquid fertilizer every two weeks to encourage blooming in spring and early summer. If you have young plants that most likely will not bloom in the spring you can continue to feed them with a balanced fertilizer e.g. 10-10-10 to encourage growth.

WATER

Epis use little water. Place a small flat rock on your mix and check it weekly. Turn it over and see if it is moist or not. If it is wet do not water. If it is not wet continue to test for watering by sticking a finger an inch or two into the mix. If it feels damp don't water. If it feels dry water until you see it drain out the bottom of the container. Mist between waterings when the weather is hot and dry.

PRUNE

It is important that you continue to groom your plants. If you were diligent when your plants stopped blooming at the end of the growing season, then you can take a well deserved rest. Remember, your Epi will let you know which branches need to be removed. Remove all dead plant material by breaking off branches or using sterilized shears.

PROTECT

Be alert to the weather. You must protect your Epis from frost and hail. You can protect your plants by insulating your growing area with the heaviest mill clear plastic you can find. Remember – cold weather is a good thing. It enables your plants to lapse into dormancy which is necessary to produce blooms in the spring.

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

If you are insulating your plantings or “winterizing” them, you are also creating an environment for vermin and their friends. These pests will eat or devour tender growth. You may have to use poison bait and or rodent traps. Good Luck.

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

If you are insulating your plantings or “winterizing” them, you are also creating an environment for vermin and their friends. These pests will eat or devour tender growth. You may have to use poison bait and or rodent traps. Good Luck.

TRANSPLANT

Winter months are the least appropriate for planting cuttings. You should be able to store any unspotted cuttings in a cool, dark, damp place until warmer weather arrives. If you feel that your plant is suffering from too much water and that the roots might be rotting, then you need to remove the plant from the pot. You then need to completely remove the roots. As long as you keep your Epi in a humid environment it will survive out of the pot until planting season. You should store this plant just like you would unrooted cuttings.

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Provide as much light for your epies as possible during the winter months. However, epies do not want direct sunlight. Remember – if you need to cover your plants during a rain – if possible remove this layer as soon as practical to allow more light for your epies.

March

BUY

Now is the time to buy plants that will be blooming in May ... just in time for Mother's Day. If you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

PLANT

Spring months are an optimal time for planting Epis Your Epi needs partial shade inland but full sun along the coast. Therefore, purchased plants prefer East-Facing Partial Sade. This occurs on an east-facing porch, under an east-facing overhang, or to the east of a house, wall, or tree. Cool morning sun shines into these areas, but they are protected from the burning hot sun of midday and afternoon hours. Plant your bare-rooted Epi in a coarse mix and pot that well drain fast. Wait two weeks to water. Epis particularly like hanging baskets.

FERTILIZE

Fertilize your mature Epis every two weeks with half strength 0-10-10 or 2-10-10 liquid fertilizer to produce flowers! If you are propagating only for growth (these might be your young plants or ones that you want to just see growth) a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 is what I would use.

WATER

Epis use little water. Place a small flat rock on your mix and check it weekly. Turn it over and see if it is moist or not. If it is wet do not water. If it is not wet continue to test for watering by sticking a finger an inch or two into the mix. If it feels damp don't water. If it feels dry water until you see it drain out the bottom of the container. Mist between waterings when the weather is hot and dry.

PRUNE

You need to continue to remove all dead and withering plant material by either breaking off branches or using sterilized shears. You need to stay ahead of the weeds that naturally come in the Spring. You might want to invest in latex gloves to protect your hands from most of the Epi spines as you remove weeds.

PROTECT

Frost damage is still an issue in some parts of San Diego. Remember, Epis prefer temperatures between 50 degrees and 80 degrees. Yes, they can survive for a brief period if the temperature goes as low as 30 or as high as 100, but remember – most of the plants you have in your garden originated in Central and South America where they inhabited the cloud forests.

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

As the weather warms you need to inspect your plants for insect pests. Aphids are attracted to newly forming buds and ants are looking for honeydew. Malathion or insecticidal soaps usually are a catchall for most six-legged Epi pests. Don’t forget to put out snail and slug bait. I recommend using meal vs pellets. Also, slightly misting the plants before you broadcast the snail and slug meal will enable it to temporarily adhere to areas most susceptible (e.g. new growth and buds).

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

As the weather warms you need to inspect your plants for insect pests. Aphids are attracted to newly forming buds and ants are looking for honeydew. Malathion or insecticidal soaps usually are a catchall for most six-legged epi pests. Don’t forget to put out snail and slug bait. I recommend using meal vs pellets. Also, slightly misting the plants before you broadcast the snail and slug meal will enable it to temporarily adhere to areas most susceptible (eg new growth and buds).

TRANSPLANT

This is not the time to repot Spring blooming varieties. If you must re-pot, you will forfeit blooms this season. Remember, epies bloom best with crowded roots. If a plant is top heavy but does not have crowded roots, place the smaller pot inside a larger one and pack the space between with pea gravel to hold it upright. Springtime, however, is optimal for rooting cuttings and "potting-up". You should pot “raw” cuttings with the areoles or notches facing upward in a dry to barely moist perlite no deeper than 1 ½ inches to 2 inches. Mist the cuttings for several weeks – do not saturate the perlite. Mist the cuttings twice weekly without getting the perlite wet. As your cuttings take root they will often produce roots from the areoles above the soil level and at the terminal end – this is a sure sign that your cutting is rooting beneath the perlite. Once your cuttings have taken hold (a slight tug that has resistance) they will begin to re-hydrate and are ready to be moved into regular soil-mix. After re-potting do not water for a week then water Lightly till new growth appears. "Potting-Up" an Epi is necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and you want it to grow larger. This is a good time to "pot-up" your non-blooming Epis. The new pot should be just slightly larger than the old pot. Transplant the Epi into new mix tapping the mix gently to remove the air pockets. After "potting-Up" do not water for one to two weeks depending on the size of the plant. (smaller=shorter...larger=longer). Re-potting If your plant shows stress it’s likely due to the loss of moisture and nutrition. This less than desirable appearance will ordinarily improve as the plant regains itself. If you feel that your plant is suffering from a waterlogged root system, this could be caused by poor pot drainage or excessive rainfall, remove your plant from its pot and inspect your roots. When a root mass has completely rotted, the best solution is to remove the roots completely. You will need to allow your plant to callous, then re-pot your plant in a new mixture. Plant your epi deeper than a plant with an intact root system. This will allow adventitious roots to form above the original intersection between once existent roots and growth.

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Epies need as much light as possible during the spring months. However, epies do not want direct sunlight. Flowers Your plants will begin to produce buds. Don’t be alarmed when the plant drops some of its buds. Your Epi can only sustain so many flowers. Most plants that have been well cared for will produce a sufficient number of flowers to bring a smile to your face. If a plant has not bloomed in several seasons it may not be exposed to enough hours or amounts of light.

April

BUY

Now is the time to buy plants that will be blooming in May ... just in time for Mother's Day. CIf you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

PLANT

Spring months are an optimal time for planting Epis Your Epi needs partial shade inland but full sun along the coast. Therefore, purchased plants prefer East-Facing Partial Sade. This occurs on an east-facing porch, under an east-facing overhang, or to the east of a house, wall, or tree. Cool morning sun shines into these areas, but they are protected from the burning hot sun of midday and afternoon hours. Plant your bare-rooted Epi in a coarse mix and pot that well drain fast. Wait two weeks to water. Epis particularly like hanging baskets.

FERTILIZE

Continue to fertilize your mature Epis every two weeks with half strength 0-10-10 or 2-10-10 liquid fertilizer so they will produce flowers! If you are propagating only for growth (these might be your young plants or ones that you want to just see growth) a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 is what I would use.

WATER

Epis use little water. Place a small flat rock on your mix and check it weekly. Turn it over and see if it is moist or not. If it is wet do not water. If it is not wet continue to test for watering by sticking a finger an inch or two into the mix. If it feels damp don't water. If it feels dry water until you see it drain out the bottom of the container. Mist between waterings when the weather is hot and dry.

PRUNE

You need to continue to remove all dead and withering plant material by either breaking off branches or using sterilized shears. You need to stay ahead of the weeds that naturally come in the Spring. You might want to invest in latex gloves to protect your hands from most of the epi spines as you remove weeds.

PROTECT

Frost damage is still an issue in some parts of San Diego. Remember, Epis prefer temperatures between 50 degrees and 80 degrees. Yes, they can survive for a brief period if the temperature goes as low as 30 or as high as 100, but remember – most of the plants you have in your garden originated in Central and South America where they inhabited the cloud forests.

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

As the weather warms you need to inspect your plants for insect pests. Aphids are attracted to newly forming buds and ants are looking for honeydew. Malathion or insecticidal soaps usually are a catchall for most six-legged epi pests. Don’t forget to put out snail and slug bait. I recommend using meal vs pellets. Also, slightly misting the plants before you broadcast the snail and slug meal will enable it to temporarily adhere to areas most susceptible (eg new growth and buds).

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

As the weather warms you need to inspect your plants for insect pests. Aphids are attracted to newly forming buds and ants are looking for honeydew. Malathion or insecticidal soaps usually are a catchall for most six-legged epi pests. Don’t forget to put out snail and slug bait. I recommend using meal vs pellets. Also, slightly misting the plants before you broadcast the snail and slug meal will enable it to temporarily adhere to areas most susceptible (eg new growth and buds).

TRANSPLANT

This is not the time to repot Spring blooming varieties. If you must re-pot, you will forfeit blooms this season. Remember, epies bloom best with crowded roots. If a plant is top heavy but does not have crowded roots, place the smaller pot inside a larger one and pack the space between with pea gravel to hold it upright. Springtime, however, is optimal for rooting cuttings and "potting-up". You should pot “raw” cuttings with the areoles or notches facing upward in a dry to barely moist perlite no deeper than 1 ½ inches to 2 inches. Mist the cuttings for several weeks – do not saturate the perlite. Mist the cuttings twice weekly without getting the perlite wet. As your cuttings take root they will often produce roots from the areoles above the soil level and at the terminal end – this is a sure sign that your cutting is rooting beneath the perlite. Once your cuttings have taken hold (a slight tug that has resistance) they will begin to re-hydrate and are ready to be moved into regular soil-mix. After re-potting do not water for a week then water Lightly till new growth appears. "Potting-Up" an Epi is necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and you want it to grow larger. This is a good time to "pot-up" your non-blooming Epis. The new pot should be just slightly larger than the old pot. Transplant the Epi into new mix tapping the mix gently to remove the air pockets. After "potting-Up" do not water for one to two weeks depending on the size of the plant. (smaller=shorter...larger=longer). Re-potting If your plant shows stress it’s likely due to the loss of moisture and nutrition. This less than desirable appearance will ordinarily improve as the plant regains itself. If you feel that your plant is suffering from a waterlogged root system, this could be caused by poor pot drainage or excessive rainfall, remove your plant from its pot and inspect your roots. When a root mass has completely rotted, the best solution is to remove the roots completely. You will need to allow your plant to callous, then re-pot your plant in a new mixture. Plant your epi deeper than a plant with an intact root system. This will allow adventitious roots to form above the original intersection between once existent roots and growth.

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Epies need as much light as possible during the spring months. However, epies do not want direct sunlight. Flowers Your plants will begin to produce buds. Don’t be alarmed when the plant drops some of its buds. Your Epi can only sustain so many flowers. Most plants that have been well cared for will produce a sufficient number of flowers to bring a smile to your face. If a plant has not bloomed in several seasons it may not be exposed to enough hours or amounts of light.

May

BUY

Now is the time to buy plants that will be blooming in May ... just in time for Mother's Day. If you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

PLANT

Spring months are an optimal time for planting Epis Your Epi needs partial shade inland but full sun along the coast. Therefore, purchased plants prefer East-Facing Partial Sade. This occurs on an east-facing porch, under an east-facing overhang, or to the east of a house, wall, or tree. Cool morning sun shines into these areas, but they are protected from the burning hot sun of midday and afternoon hours. Plant your bare-rooted Epi in a coarse mix and pot that well drain fast. Wait two weeks to water. Epis particularly like hanging baskets.

FERTILIZE

Fertilize your mature Epis every two weeks with half strength 0-10-10 or 2-10-10 so they will produce flowers! Fertilizing can begin as early as February in the most temperate zones. If you are propagating only for growth (these might be your young plants or ones that you want to just see growth) a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 is what I would use. You can begin to fertilize as early as February in the most temperate zones.

WATER

Epis use little water. Place a small flat rock on your mix and check it weekly. Turn it over and see if it is moist or not. If it is wet do not water. If it is not wet continue to test for watering by sticking a finger an inch or two into the mix. If it feels damp don't water. If it feels dry water until you see it drain out the bottom of the container. Mist between waterings when the weather is hot and dry.

PRUNE

You need to continue to remove all dead and withering plant material by either breaking off branches or using sterilized shears. You need to stay ahead of the weeds that naturally come in the Spring. You might want to invest in latex gloves to protect your hands from most of the epi spines as you remove weeds.

PROTECT

Frost damage is still an issue in some parts of San Diego. Remember, Epis prefer temperatures between 50 degrees and 80 degrees. Yes, they can survive for a brief period if the temperature goes as low as 30 or as high as 100, but remember – most of the plants you have in your garden originated in Central and South America where they inhabited the cloud forests.

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

As the weather warms you need to inspect your plants for insect pests. Aphids are attracted to newly forming buds and ants are looking for honeydew. Malathion or insecticidal soaps usually are a catchall for most six-legged epi pests. Don’t forget to put out snail and slug bait. I recommend using meal vs pellets. Also, slightly misting the plants before you broadcast the snail and slug meal will enable it to temporarily adhere to areas most susceptible (eg new growth and buds). Call Garden Jewels Nursery at 619-987-6251 if you have any questions or you can email us at katie@garden-jewels.com

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

As the weather warms you need to inspect your plants for insect pests. Aphids are attracted to newly forming buds and ants are looking for honeydew. Malathion or insecticidal soaps usually are a catchall for most six-legged epi pests. Don’t forget to put out snail and slug bait. I recommend using meal vs pellets. Also, slightly misting the plants before you broadcast the snail and slug meal will enable it to temporarily adhere to areas most susceptible (eg new growth and buds).

TRANSPLANT

This is not the time to re-pot Spring blooming varieties. If you must re-pot, you will forfeit blooms this season. Remember, Epis bloom best with crowded roots. If a plant is top heavy but does not have crowded roots, place the smaller pot inside a larger one and pack the space between with pea gravel to hold it upright. Springtime, however, is optimal for rooting cuttings and "potting-up". You should pot “raw” cuttings with the areoles or notches facing upward in a dry to barely moist perlite no deeper than 1 ½ inches to 2 inches. Mist the cuttings for several weeks – do not saturate the perlite. Mist the cuttings twice weekly without getting the perlite wet. As your cuttings take root they will often produce roots from the areoles above the soil level and at the terminal end – this is a sure sign that your cutting is rooting beneath the perlite. Once your cuttings have taken hold (a slight tug that has resistance) they will begin to re-hydrate and are ready to be moved into regular soil-mix. After re-potting do not water for a week then water Lightly till new growth appears. "Potting-Up" an Epi is necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and you want it to grow larger. This is a good time to "pot-up" your non-blooming Epis. The new pot should be just slightly larger than the old pot. Transplant the Epi into new mix tapping the mix gently to remove the air pockets. After "potting-Up" do not water for one to two weeks depending on the size of the plant. (smaller=shorter...larger=longer).

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Epies need as much light as possible during the spring months. However, epies do not want direct sunlight. Flowers Your plants will begin to produce buds. Don’t be alarmed when the plant drops some of its buds. Your Epi can only sustain so many flowers. Most plants that have been well cared for will produce a sufficient number of flowers to bring a smile to your face. If a plant has not bloomed in several seasons it may not be exposed to enough hours or amounts of light.

June

BUY

After your plants have finished blooming you should begin to trim them. You can also buy cuttings and after they have dried for a couple weeks you can root them before the cold winter months. If you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

PLANT

Once your Epis have bloomed you may want to re-pot to keep them properly groomed. Every three to four years is recommended. You will want to pot-up (next size larger pot) if your plant is falling over or too large for its container. Good time to root cuttings.

FERTILIZE

After the plant has bloomed is the time to fertilize your epis for growth. Use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 14-14-14. Follow the directions on the container as to how often A fertilizer rated 21-21-21 is simply three times stronger so use two thirds less. If you use Osmocote remember that dissolution only occurs at temperatures above 70F. You need to consider where your plants are growing and what the climate is. You might not want to use this time or slow release fertilizer. Usually two teaspoons per 9 inch pot should be sufficient. It should be scattered upon the surface of the soil and may be worked into the top half inch. Remember to look at your plants before you “just fertilize” If there is a build-up of fertilizer from previous years (maybe old plants that have not been re-potted in several years) the “crust” greatly inhibits water from entering the pot and reaching the roots below the top inch of the soil … thus you are not improving your plant. Bottom line – don’t just blindly throw a scoop of fertilizer in your plants.

WATER

Epis use little water. Place a small flat rock on your mix and check it weekly. Turn it over and see if it is moist or not. If it is wet do not water. If it is not wet continue to test for watering by sticking a finger an inch or two into the mix. If it feels damp don't water. If it feels dry water until you see it drain out the bottom of the container. Mist between waterings when the weather is hot and dry.

PRUNE

Continue to prune your plants. Your plants will let you know which branches to remove and which to leave. Remove all dead and withering plant material by breaking off branches or by using sterilized shears. The blooming season has just and the growing season is upon you . Be alert to weed seeds, which have been waiting for warm weather to germinate. Diligent removal of weeds will eliminate more drastic measures after they take over your pots. Oxalis, one of the most common and tenacious weeds has a long tap root that must be removed.

PROTECT

You need to continue to keep your plants in the shade to avoid sunburn and dehydration. Check the moisture of your soil at least weekly. Stick a finger a few inches into the potting soil to judge dampness. It your plant dries out it could be because of the potting mix you are using. It is also possible that your plant’s root system is too big for the pot, thus there is no room for the potting soil to hold moisture. Misting the growing area will cool your plants and the surrounding area. The best time to mist is in the evening when temperatures are diminishing and the stoma or “breathing pores” of the plant open, thus allowing the plant to absorb moisture from water it contacts.

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait. Cabbage moth larva (small green to gray “inch worms”) can wreak havoc on tender growth. A valuable home defense for these pests is a 50/50 percent solution of rubbing alcohol and water sprayed from an atomizer.

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait. Cabbage moth larva (small green to gray “inch worms”) can wreak havoc on tender growth. A valuable home defense for these pests is a 50/50 percent solution of rubbing alcohol and water sprayed from an atomizer.

TRANSPLANT

We re-pot to encourage growth, which will hopefully then encourage blooms in the Spring. As a general rule you should re-pot your Epi after it stops growing or stops blooming. every two to four years. The tendency is to re-pot too often. Epis like to have crowded roots in order to bloom better. This is an optimal time for rooting cuttings and "potting-up". You should pot “raw” cuttings with the areoles or notches facing upward in a dry to barely moist perlite no deeper than 1 ½ inches to 2 inches. Mist the cuttings for several weeks – do not saturate the perlite. Mist the cuttings twice weekly without getting the perlite wet. As your cuttings take root they will often produce roots from the areoles above the soil level and at the terminal end – this is a sure sign that your cutting is rooting beneath the perlite. Once your cuttings have taken hold (a slight tug that has resistance) they will begin to re-hydrate and are ready to be moved into regular soil-mix. After re-potting do not water for a week then water Lightly till new growth appears. "Potting-Up" an Epi is necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and you want it to grow larger. This is a good time to "pot-up" your non-blooming Epis. The new pot should be just slightly larger than the old pot. Transplant the Epi into new mix tapping the mix gently to remove the air pockets. After "potting-Up" do not water for one to two weeks depending on the size of the plant. (smaller=shorter...larger=longer).

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Your epies need light and they need protection from the summer’s burning sun. Summer holds the greatest potential for foliage damage due to too much sun exposure in combination with higher temperatures and low humidity. You might need to add additional shade cloth to protect your plants. Summer is also the traditional season to repot, fertilize and prune your epies.

July

BUY

After your plants have finished blooming you should begin to trim them. You can also buy cuttings and after they have dried for a couple weeks you can root them before the cold winter months. If you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

PLANT

Once your Epis have bloomed you may want to re-pot to keep them properly groomed. Every three to four years is recommended. You will want to pot-up (next size larger pot) if your plant is falling over or too large for its container. Good time to root cuttings.

FERTILIZE

After the plant has bloomed is the time to fertilize your epies for growth. Use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 14-14-14. Follow the directions on the container as to how often. A fertilizer rated 21-21-21 is simply three times stronger so use two thirds less. If you use Osmocote remember that dissolution only occurs at temperatures above 70F. You need to consider where your plants are growing and what the climate is. You might not want to use this time or slow release fertilizer. Usually two teaspoons per 9 inch pot should be sufficient. It should be scattered upon the surface of the soil and may be worked into the top half inch. Remember to look at your plants before you “just fertilize” If there is a build-up of fertilizer from previous years (maybe old plants that have not been re-potted in several years) the “crust” greatly inhibits water from entering the pot and reaching the roots below the top inch of the soil … thus you are not improving your plant. Bottom line – don’t just blindly throw a scoop of fertilizer in your plants.

WATER

Epis use little water. Place a small flat rock on your mix and check it weekly. Turn it over and see if it is moist or not. If it is wet do not water. If it is not wet continue to test for watering by sticking a finger an inch or two into the mix. If it feels damp don't water. If it feels dry water until you see it drain out the bottom of the container. Mist between waterings when the weather is hot and dry.

PRUNE

Continue to prune your plants. Your plants will let you know which branches to remove and which to leave. Remove all dead and withering plant material by breaking off branches or by using sterilized shears. The blooming season has just and the growing season is upon you . Be alert to weed seeds, which have been waiting for warm weather to germinate. Diligent removal of weeds will eliminate more drastic measures after they take over your pots. Oxalis, one of the most common and tenacious weeds has a long tap root that must be removed.

PROTECT

You need to continue to keep your plants in the shade to avoid sunburn and dehydration. Check the moisture of your soil at least weekly. Stick a finger a few inches into the potting soil to judge dampness. It your plant dries out it could be because of the potting mix you are using. It is also possible that your plant’s root system is too big for the pot, thus there is no room for the potting soil to hold moisture. Misting the growing area will cool your plants and the surrounding area. The best time to mist is in the evening when temperatures are diminishing and the stoma or “breathing pores” of the plant open, thus allowing the plant to absorb moisture from water it contacts. Call Garden Jewels Nursery at 619-987-6251 if you have any questions or you can email us at katie@garden-jewels.com

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait. Cabbage moth larva (small green to gray “inch worms”) can wreak havoc on tender growth. A valuable home defense for these pests is a 50/50 percent solution of rubbing alcohol and water sprayed from an atomizer.

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait. Cabbage moth larva (small green to gray “inch worms”) can wreak havoc on tender growth. A valuable home defense for these pests is a 50/50 percent solution of rubbing alcohol and water sprayed from an atomizer.

TRANSPLANT

We re-pot to encourage growth, which will hopefully then encourage blooms in the Spring. As a general rule you should re-pot your Epi after it stops growing or stops blooming. every two to four years. The tendency is to re-pot too often. Epis like to have crowded roots in order to bloom better. This is an optimal time for rooting cuttings and "potting-up". You should pot “raw” cuttings with the areoles or notches facing upward in a dry to barely moist perlite no deeper than 1 ½ inches to 2 inches. Mist the cuttings for several weeks – do not saturate the perlite. Mist the cuttings twice weekly without getting the perlite wet. As your cuttings take root they will often produce roots from the areoles above the soil level and at the terminal end – this is a sure sign that your cutting is rooting beneath the perlite. Once your cuttings have taken hold (a slight tug that has resistance) they will begin to re-hydrate and are ready to be moved into regular soil-mix. After re-potting do not water for a week then water Lightly till new growth appears. "Potting-Up" an Epi is necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and you want it to grow larger. This is a good time to "pot-up" your non-blooming Epis. The new pot should be just slightly larger than the old pot. Transplant the Epi into new mix tapping the mix gently to remove the air pockets. After "potting-Up" do not water for one to two weeks depending on the size of the plant. (smaller=shorter...larger=longer).

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Your epies need light and they need protection from the summer’s burning sun. Summer holds the greatest potential for foliage damage due to too much sun exposure in combination with higher temperatures and low humidity. You might need to add additional shade cloth to protect your plants. Summer is also the traditional season to repot, fertilize and prune your epies.

August

BUY

Plants should be trimmed during this time of the year. This is a good time to buy cuttings so they can be rooted before winter. If you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

PLANT

Once your Epis have bloomed you may want to re-pot to keep them properly groomed. Every three to four years is recommended. You will want to pot-up (next size larger pot) if your plant is falling over or too large for its container. Good time to root cuttings.

FERTILIZE

Now is the time to fertilize your Epies for growth. Use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 14-14-14. Follow the directions on the container as to how often. A fertilizer rated 21-21-21 is simply three times stronger so use two thirds less. If you use Osmocote remember that dissolution only occurs at temperatures above 70F. You need to consider where your plants are growing and what the climate is. You might not want to use this time or slow release fertilizer. Usually two teaspoons should be sufficient. It should be scattered upon the surface of the soil and may be worked into the top half inch. Remember to look at your plants before you “just fertilize” If there is a build-up of fertilizer from previous years (maybe old plants that have not been re-potted in several years) the “crust” greatly inhibits water from entering the pot and reaching the roots below the top inch of the soil … thus you are not improving your plant. Bottom line – don’t just blindly throw a scoop of fertilizer in your plants.

WATER

Epis use little water. Place a small flat rock on your mix and check it weekly. Turn it over and see if it is moist or not. If it is wet do not water. If it is not wet continue to test for watering by sticking a finger an inch or two into the mix. If it feels damp don't water. If it feels dry water until you see it drain out the bottom of the container. Mist between waterings when the weather is hot and dry.

PRUNE

Continue to prune your plants. Your plants will let you know which branches to remove and which to leave. Remove all dead and withering plant material by breaking off branches or by using sterilized shears. The blooming season has just and the growing season is upon you . Be alert to weed seeds, which have been waiting for warm weather to germinate. Diligent removal of weeds will eliminate more drastic measures after they take over your pots. Oxalis, one of the most common and tenacious weeds has a long tap root that must be removed.

PROTECT

You need to continue to keep your plants in the shade to avoid sunburn and dehydration. Check the moisture of your soil at least weekly. Stick a finger a few inches into the potting soil to judge dampness. It your plant dries out it could be because of the potting mix you are using. It is also possible that your plant’s root system is too big for the pot, thus there is no room for the potting soil to hold moisture. Misting the growing area will cool your plants and the surrounding area. The best time to mist is in the evening when temperatures are diminishing and the stoma or “breathing pores” of the plant open, thus allowing the plant to absorb moisture from water it contacts.

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait. Cabbage moth larva (small green to gray “inch worms”) can wreak havoc on tender growth. A valuable home defense for these pests is a 50/50 percent solution of rubbing alcohol and water sprayed from an atomizer.

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait. Cabbage moth larva (small green to gray “inch worms”) can wreak havoc on tender growth. A valuable home defense for these pests is a 50/50 percent solution of rubbing alcohol and water sprayed from an atomizer. Call Garden Jewels Nursery at 619-987-6251 if you have any questions or you can email us at katie@garden-jewels.com

TRANSPLANT

We re-pot to encourage growth, which will hopefully then encourage blooms in the Spring. As a general rule you should re-pot your Epi after it stops growing or stops blooming. every three to four years. The tendency is to re-pot too often. Epis like to have crowded roots in order to bloom better. This is an optimal time for rooting cuttings and "potting-up". You should pot “raw” cuttings with the areoles or notches facing upward in a dry to barely moist perlite no deeper than 1 ½ inches to 2 inches. Mist the cuttings for several weeks – do not saturate the perlite. Mist the cuttings twice weekly without getting the perlite wet. As your cuttings take root they will often produce roots from the areoles above the soil level and at the terminal end – this is a sure sign that your cutting is rooting beneath the perlite. Once your cuttings have taken hold (a slight tug that has resistance) they will begin to re-hydrate and are ready to be moved into regular soil-mix. After re-potting do not water for a week then water Lightly till new growth appears. "Potting-Up" an Epi is necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and you want it to grow larger. This is a good time to "pot-up" your non-blooming Epis. The new pot should be just slightly larger than the old pot. Transplant the Epi into new mix tapping the mix gently to remove the air pockets. After "potting-Up" do not water for one to two weeks depending on the size of the plant. (smaller=shorter...larger=longer).

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Your epies need light and they need protection from the summer’s burning sun. Summer holds the greatest potential for foliage damage due to too much sun exposure in combination with higher temperatures and low humidity. You might need to add additional shade cloth to protect your plants. Summer is also the traditional season to repot, fertilize and prune your epies.

September

BUY

Plants should be trimmed during this time of the year. This is a good time to buy cuttings so they can be planted before winter. If you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

PLANT

Once your Epis have bloomed you may want to re-pot to keep them properly groomed. Every three to four years is recommended. You will want to pot-up (next size larger pot) if your plant is falling over or too large for its container.

FERTILIZE

Autumn is the time for the last application of 0-10-10 or 2-10-10 liquid fertilizer for the year. This time varies by grower, I prefer doing it early, around the 1st of September. Once late Autumn or winter weather comes discontinue feeding. This will enable your plants to go into dormancy which is necessary for Spring blooms. Plants that are too young to flower the following season should continue to be fed during the dormancy period.

WATER

As always, continue to check your plants weekly for soil moisture. Autumn can mean heavy rains and high temperatures. This combination can lead to root rot. If you have this problem, you need to assess your soil mixture and pot drainage. You might need to add larger soil particles (sponge-rock/redwood bark) to your soil and you might need to drill additional holes in the bottom and/or sides of your plastic pots. If you are experiencing infrequent or no rain, water and mist your plants on a regular basis as explained in the August watering directions.

PRUNE

This is a good time to check the legibility of name labels. Give your plants their end of season pruning. Blooms only grow from live areoles. Therefore, stems with few viable areoles will produce few flowers, and use energy that good stems could use to produce better blooms. A brown knot where the areole should be means that areole is dead. Sometimes the whole edge of a stem is dead, including the areoles. This is a candidate for trimming. Your epi will tell you which branches you need to discard. Branches that appear to be dehydrated and turning yellow as compared to greener and more fully hydrated ones should be removed. Break or snap any unwanted growth or use sterilized shears. You need to stay ahead of weeds. Oxalis, one of the most common and tenacious weeds seen in epi pots, has a long tap root that must be removed or it will regenerate. Remember to wear latex gloves to protect your hands from the majority of Epi spines.

PROTECT

You should mist your plants to keep them cool. If you are in an arid area – you should mist daily. It is best to mist in the evening. Call Garden Jewels Nursery at 619-987-6251 if you have any questions or you can email us at katie@garden-jewels.com

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait.

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait.

TRANSPLANT

September is still an appropriate month for re-potting to encourage growth, which will hopefully then encourage blooms in the Spring. As a general rule you should re-pot your Epi after it stops growing or stops blooming. every three to four years. The tendency is to re-pot too often. Epis like to have crowded roots in order to bloom better. This is an optimal time for rooting cuttings and "potting-up". You should pot “raw” cuttings with the areoles or notches facing upward in a dry to barely moist perlite no deeper than 1 ½ inches to 2 inches. Mist the cuttings for several weeks – do not saturate the perlite. Mist the cuttings twice weekly without getting the perlite wet. As your cuttings take root they will often produce roots from the areoles above the soil level and at the terminal end – this is a sure sign that your cutting is rooting beneath the perlite. Once your cuttings have taken hold (a slight tug that has resistance) they will begin to re-hydrate and are ready to be moved into regular soil-mix. After re-potting do not water for a week then water Lightly till new growth appears. "Potting-Up" an Epi is necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and you want it to grow larger. This is a good time to "pot-up" your non-blooming Epis. The new pot should be just slightly larger than the old pot. Transplant the Epi into new mix tapping the mix gently to remove the air pockets. After "potting-Up" do not water for one to two weeks depending on the size of the plant. (smaller=shorter...larger=longer).

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

It is important that you give your epis adequate light while also protecting them from the southern sun exposure. Remember, epies do not want direct sunlight. You can damage your plants foliage with too much sun exposure in combination with higher temperatures and low humidity. Flowers You might have some off-season bloomers they will produce during the fall months, however, for the most part the blooming season has passed.

October

BUY

Plants should be trimmed during this time of the year. This is a good time to buy cuttings so they can be planted before winter. If you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

PLANT

Once your Epis have bloomed you may want to re-pot to keep them properly groomed. Every three to four years is recommended. You will want to pot-up (next size larger pot) if your plant is falling over or too large for its container.

FERTILIZE

If you missed feeding in September now is your final month to fertilize once more before your plants go into dormancy. A balanced “slow released” fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 14-14-14 can be used as a final feeding before the onset of cool weather. Once winter weather comes discontinue feeding. This will enable your plants to go into dormancy which is necessary for Spring blooms. Plants that are too young to flower the following season should continue to be fed during the dormancy period.

WATER

As always, continue to check your plants weekly for soil moisture. Autumn can mean heavy rains and high temperatures. This combination can lead to root rot. If you have this problem, you need to assess your soil mixture and pot drainage. You might need to add larger soil particles (sponge-rock/redwood bark) to your soil and you might need to drill additional holes in the bottom and/or sides of your plastic pots. If you are experiencing infrequent or no rain, water and mist your plants on a regular basis as described in the August watering directions.

PRUNE

This is a good time to check the legibility of name labels. Give your plants their end of season pruning. Blooms only grow from live areoles. Therefore, stems with few viable areoles will produce few flowers, and use energy that good stems could use to produce better blooms. A brown knot where the areole should be means that areole is dead. Sometimes the whole edge of a stem is dead, including the areoles. This is a candidate for trimming. Your epi will tell you which branches you need to discard. Branches that appear to be dehydrated and turning yellow as compared to greener and more fully hydrated ones should be removed. Break or snap any unwanted growth or use sterilized shears. You need to stay ahead of weeds. Oxalis, one of the most common and tenacious weeds seen in epi pots, has a long tap root that must be removed or it will regenerate. Remember to wear latex gloves to protect your hands from the majority of Epi spines.

PROTECT

You should mist your plants to keep them cool. If you are in an arid area – you should mist daily. It is best to mist in the evening. Call Garden Jewels Nursery at 619-987-6251 if you have any questions or you can email us at katie@garden-jewels.com

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait.

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait.

TRANSPLANT

We re-pot to encourage growth, which will hopefully then encourage blooms in the Spring. As a general rule you should re-pot your Epi after it stops growing or stops blooming. every three to four years. The tendency is to re-pot too often. Epis like to have crowded roots in order to bloom better. This is an optimal time for rooting cuttings and "potting-up". You should pot “raw” cuttings with the areoles or notches facing upward in a dry to barely moist perlite no deeper than 1 ½ inches to 2 inches. Mist the cuttings for several weeks – do not saturate the perlite. Mist the cuttings twice weekly without getting the perlite wet. As your cuttings take root they will often produce roots from the areoles above the soil level and at the terminal end – this is a sure sign that your cutting is rooting beneath the perlite. Once your cuttings have taken hold (a slight tug that has resistance) they will begin to re-hydrate and are ready to be moved into regular soil-mix. After re-potting do not water for a week then water Lightly till new growth appears. "Potting-Up" an Epi is necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and you want it to grow larger. This is a good time to "pot-up" your non-blooming Epis. The new pot should be just slightly larger than the old pot. Transplant the Epi into new mix tapping the mix gently to remove the air pockets. After "potting-Up" do not water for one to two weeks depending on the size of the plant. (smaller=shorter...larger=longer).

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

It is important that you give your epis adequate light while also protecting them from the southern sun exposure. Remember, epies do not want direct sunlight. You can damage your plants foliage with too much sun exposure in combination with higher temperatures and low humidity. Flowers You might have some off-season bloomers they will produce during the fall months, however, for the most part the blooming season has passed.

November

BUY

You need to keep an eye on your plants as this could be a rainy time of the year. Epis don't like to be wet. This is a quiet time in the garden. Plants are resting preparing for the blooming season. We usually don't buy cuttings this time of year, but plants can always be purchased.

PLANT

You need to keep an eye on your plants as this could be a rainy time of the year. Epis don't like to be wet. This is a quiet time in the garden. Plants are resting preparing for the blooming season. We don't recommend planting during November unless you are experiencing a mild temperate climate.

FERTILIZE

Put off fertilizing mature Epis till February. However plants that are too young to flower the following season should continue to be fed during the dormancy period. with a balanced "slow released" fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 14-14-14.

WATER

As always, continue to check your plants weekly for soil moisture. Autumn can mean heavy rains and high temperatures. This combination can lead to root rot. If you have this problem, you need to assess your soil mixture and pot drainage. You might need to add larger soil particles (sponge-rock/redwood bark) to your soil and you might need to drill additional holes in the bottom and/or sides of your plastic pots. If you are experiencing infrequent or no rain, water and mist your plants on a regular basis as described in the August watering directions.

PRUNE

This is a good time to check the legibility of name labels. Give your plants their end of season pruning. Blooms only grow from live areoles. Therefore, stems with few viable areoles will produce few flowers, and use energy that good stems could use to produce better blooms. A brown knot where the areole should be means that areole is dead. Sometimes the whole edge of a stem is dead, including the areoles. This is a candidate for trimming. Your epi will tell you which branches you need to discard. Branches that appear to be dehydrated and turning yellow as compared to greener and more fully hydrated ones should be removed. Break or snap any unwanted growth or use sterilized shears. You need to stay ahead of weeds. Oxalis, one of the most common and tenacious weeds seen in Epi pots, has a long tap root that must be removed or it will regenerate. Remember to wear latex gloves to protect your hands from the majority of epi spines.

PROTECT

You should mist your plants to keep them cool. If you are in an arid area – you should mist daily. It is best to mist in the evening.

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait.

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

Inspect your plants for insects. Scale and mealy bugs are usually the most prevalent pests at this time. Sprayed solutions of Malathion or insecticidal soaps are usually the best for most insects. If you experience an infestation of scale you might have to remove the plant from its pot a give it a complete scrub-down with a toothbrush saturated with one of the insecticides mentioned above. Remember to put out snail and slug bait.

TRANSPLANT

We re-pot to encourage growth, which will hopefully then encourage blooms in the Spring. As a general rule you should re-pot your Epi after it stops growing or stops blooming. every three to four years. The tendency is to re-pot too often. Epis like to have crowded roots in order to bloom better. This is an optimal time for rooting cuttings and "potting-up". You should pot “raw” cuttings with the areoles or notches facing upward in a dry to barely moist perlite no deeper than 1 ½ inches to 2 inches. Mist the cuttings for several weeks – do not saturate the perlite. Mist the cuttings twice weekly without getting the perlite wet. As your cuttings take root they will often produce roots from the areoles above the soil level and at the terminal end – this is a sure sign that your cutting is rooting beneath the perlite. Once your cuttings have taken hold (a slight tug that has resistance) they will begin to re-hydrate and are ready to be moved into regular soil-mix. After re-potting do not water for a week then water Lightly till new growth appears. "Potting-Up" an Epi is necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and you want it to grow larger. This is a good time to "pot-up" your non-blooming Epis. The new pot should be just slightly larger than the old pot. Transplant the Epi into new mix tapping the mix gently to remove the air pockets. After "potting-Up" do not water for one to two weeks depending on the size of the plant. (smaller=shorter...larger=longer).

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

It is important that you give your epis adequate light while also protecting them from the southern sun exposure. Remember, epies do not want direct sunlight. You can damage your plants foliage with too much sun exposure in combination with higher temperatures and low humidity. Call Garden Jewels Nursery at 619-987-6251 if you have any questions or you can email us at katie@garden-jewels.com Flowers You might have some off-season bloomers they will produce during the fall months, however, for the most part the blooming season has passed.

December

BUY

You need to keep an eye on your plants as this could be a rainy time of the year. Epis don't like to be wet. This is a quiet time in the garden. Plants are resting preparing for the blooming season. We usually don't buy cuttings this time of year, but plants can always be purchased. If you have questions please do not hesitate to call our Nursery at 619.987-6251 or ask about availability or email us at Katie@garden-jewels.com

PLANT

Winter months' are the least appropriate for planting cuttings and re-potting. Unless you are in the mildest of areas where growing conditions continue during this season, hold off planting new cuttings. Usually cuttings can be successfully stored in a cool, dark, damp place till warmer weather arrives. The same recommendation applies to re-potting. If a plant shows signs of stress it is likely due to cold weather and will rectify its appearance the following spring. If however you feel the plant is suffering from a waterlogged root system due to poor pot drainage or excessive rainfall, remove the plant from the pot and inspect the root system. When a root mass has rotted away from water or frost the best remedy is to remove the roots completely. As long as the plant remains in a humid environment it will survive out of the pot until planting season returns. Store the plant as you would un-rooted cuttings.

FERTILIZE

Winter is the "traditional" time not to fertilize. This dormancy period allows new growth to mature or "harden-off". However, Plants that are too young to flower the following season should continue to be fed during the dormancy period with a balanced "slow released" fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 14-14-14.

WATER

Cooler weather can still deceptively wick moisture from your plants unless humidity levels are high. Continue to check your plants weekly for soil moisture and follow the August watering directions.

PRUNE

It is important that you continue to groom your plants. If you were diligent when your plants stopped blooming at the end of the growing season, then you can take a well deserved rest. Remember, your epie will let you know which branches need to be removed. Remove all dead plant material by breaking off branches or using sterilized shears.

PROTECT

Be alert to the weather. You must protect your Epis from frost and hail. You can protect your plants by insulating your growing area with the heaviest mill clear plastic you can find. Remember – cold weather is a good thing. It enables your plants to lapse into dormancy which is necessary to produce blooms in the spring.

PEST/DISEASE INSPECTION

If you are insulating your plantings or “winterizing” them, you are also creating an environment for vermin and their friends. These pests will eat or devour tender growth. You may have to use poison bait and or rodent traps. Good Luck.

TREAT FOR PEST/DISEASE

If you are insulating your plantings or “winterizing” them, you are also creating an environment for vermin and their friends. These pests will eat or devour tender growth. You may have to use poison bait and or rodent traps. Good Luck. Call Garden Jewels Nursery at 619-987-6251 if you have any questions or you can email us at katie@garden-jewels.com

TRANSPLANT

Winter months are the least appropriate for planting cuttings and re-potting. You should be able to store any unspotted cuttings in a cool, dark, damp place until warmer weather arrives. If you feel that your plant is suffering from too much water and that the roots might be rotting, then you need to remove the plant from the pot. You then need to completely remove the roots. As long as you keep your epie in a humid environment it will survive out of the pot until planting season. You should store this plant just like you would unrooted cuttings.

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Provide as much light for your epies as possible during the winter months. Epies do not want direct sunlight Remember – if you need to cover your plants during a rain – if possible remove this layer as soon as practical to allow more light for your epies.

Garden Jewels Nursery had it's official Grand Opening August of 2009.  We have two home based nurseries in the Point Loma area of San Diego.  Each nursery has it's own specialties.  One of our locations grows and sells succulents, cacti, Clivia, Philodenrums.  At any given time this location could have a mulitude of different plants.  Our second garden nursery is filled with Epiphyllums, Plumerias and Cymbidiums.

We have been growing and propagatting our plants for over 30 years.  In 2008 we became State Certified to grow and sell plants and plant products.

Our website is under construction and we will be launching in January of 2011.  In the meantime you can contact us at Katie@garden-jewels.com or 619.987.6251.

If you have information like this for your region and would like to share it please let us know, we'll be sure to give you writing credit and link back to your website! Click here to contact us.

 

You can get these instructions sent directly to your Profile page, click here to learn how.

• See all of Garden Jewels Nursery Monthly Plant Care Reminders click here.
• Add Epiphyllum's to one of your plant lists, to learn how here.
• Search our plant database for photos and more great information click here .