Fruit, Nuts and Vegetables
Below you'll find plant care articles about Fruits, Nuts and Vegetables. To search for Monthly Plant Care Reminders go here. You can also browse all of our Plant Care Providers here. If you have information like this for your region and would like to share it please let us know, we love to create win-win relationships! Click here to contact us.How to Plant Grafted Tomatoes! - Gotomato Organics
Written by Gotomato Organics
Because grafted tomatoes grow a bit differently, I've put together a few planting tips for you. Follow these instructions (especially the first one) for grafted tomato success!

Do not plant grafted tomatoes too deeply:
This is the most important planting tip!Make sure that the graft line or scar across the stem appears at the base of the plant above the soil line. Soil should never be placed above this line or you will lose all the benefits of the graft. We usually plant regular tomatoes quite deeply but, in order to ensure the benefits of the graft, you must not bury the graft line when planting. Take a close look at your stem and find the graft line (see the photo above). Just keep the line in your sight as you plant and you are on your way to success!
Add amendments to the planting hole:
Before planting your grafted tomato, give it a boost of nutrition and beneficial microbes by adding in your favorite amendments and fertilizers. I recommend using Espoma Tomato-tone, John and Bob's Optimize, Maximize and Nourish as well as some good, old fashioned compost. Just a handful of each and your tomato growth will be exponential!
Stake and support them right away:
Employ a LARGE stake or tomato cage. Grafted tomato plants can grow up to 30% larger than regular tomatoes so support is essential. If possible, look for stakes that are at least 8 feet tall and 2 inches in diameter. The average cone-shaped cage will NOT be enough to hold these plants up by harvest time. Install your support system right after you transplant your starts. This is to prevent root damage. As soon as a tomato is planted, it begins shooting out new roots horizontally across the soil. If you wait a few weeks to drive stakes into the ground around your start, you run a high risk of damaging those new roots. So, stake those tomatoes early using strong, sturdy support.
Pruning is recommended:
Prune to the fifth leave section then allow the plant to produce a second runner (allow a sucker to form a "V" and allow it to grow as a second main stem). Prune any lower branches keeping them away from the ground. These lower branches can root, effectively losing the benefit of the graft.
Use Large Containers: If you are planting these in containers, use one that a soil volume of at least 20 gallons. Remember larger the plant, larger the root system and grafted tomatoes have enormous root systems!
Gotomato is the business and brainchild of Steve Goto, the Tomato King! Get more planting and growing tips on Steve's blog at Gotomato.us.com and stay tuned to my Facebook page for more tomato advice!
Steve Goto has been highly influential in introducing heirloom tomatoes to the mainstream market. In the 1980’s, he single-handedly brought heirlooms to the forefront, in southern California, by growing and selling hundreds of varieties. Now, the market for heirlooms has grown tremendously. He is an experienced and highly-qualified tomato and gardening lecturer, as well! Steve tours the west coast, and places beyond, educating the masses on the wonders of tomatoes and other delicious plants. Steve lectures on organic growing techniques, insect and disease control, soil care and much more for not only tomatoes but eggplants, peppers and other heirloom and unusual vegetables.
Preparing For Your Winter Vegetables
Written by whittier fertilizer
Summer Pruning of Fruit Trees Keeps them the Right Size
Written by Ron Vanderhoff
In those original columns, written in December, I remarked that the objectives of summer and winter pruning are quite different, although both important.
Before you prune another branch on your peach, nectarine, plum, apricot, apple, persimmon, pluot, almond or other deciduous fruit tree, take a moment to learn about the unique pruning needs of these trees. Correct pruning will lead to healthier trees, strong structure and delicious yields for decades to come.
Time for Winter Pruning of Fruit Trees – Part Two
Written by Ron Vanderhoff Wednesday, 22 December 2010 00:00
Read Part One Of This Article Here.
As promised, this week I'll quickly explain the 1-2-3's of winter stonefruit and deciduous fruit tree pruning. I don't have space to go into too much depth, but I can at least provide a primer.
Pruning Peaches, Plums and Apricots
Written by Ron Vanderhoff Saturday, 11 December 2010 00:00
Read Part Two Of This Article Here.
In almost all cases, fruiting trees are pruned quite different than ornamental trees. Far too often I see fruit trees pruned completely wrong, either at the incorrect time of year, two heavily or two lightly, or in a manner that almost guarantees no fruit will be produced.
Stop. Before you prune another branch on your peach, nectarine, plum, apricot, apple, persimmon, pluot, almond or similar tree, take a few minutes to learn how these trees grow and how they actually produce their fruit. A few wrong cuts can nearly eliminate your crop, but an understanding of just a few basic needs of these trees can greatly increase both the quantity and quality of your fruit harvest. Furthermore, proper pruning will lead to a healthier tree, with solid structure and delicious fruit yields for decades to come.
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