Fruit, Nuts and Vegetables

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How to Plant Grafted Tomatoes! - Gotomato Organics

Written by Gotomato Organics

Recently, Grafted Tomatoes have been introduced to local gardeners. Grafted tomatoes give you the same great flavors and colors of other homegrown tomatoes but the big difference is in the hearty root stock that benefits their growth. Just like roses and fruit trees, tomato plants are mated or fused to a vigorous root stock to provide maximum nutrition availability to the plant and fruit. There are several wonderful benefits of the grafting process including superior disease resistance, increased fruit productivity and size as well as increased brix levels (sugar content). It also increases the plant's tolerance to hot and cold temperatures, providing a long growing season.

 

Because grafted tomatoes grow a bit differently, I've put together a few planting tips for you. Follow these instructions (especially the first one) for grafted tomato success!

graftedtomato

 

Do not plant grafted tomatoes too deeply:

This is the most important planting tip!Make sure that the graft line or scar across the stem appears at the base of the plant above the soil line. Soil should never be placed above this line or you will lose all the benefits of the graft. We usually plant regular tomatoes quite deeply but, in order to ensure the benefits of the graft, you must not bury the graft line when planting. Take a close look at your stem and find the graft line (see the photo above). Just keep the line in your sight as you plant and you are on your way to success!

Add amendments to the planting hole:

Before planting your grafted tomato, give it a boost of nutrition and beneficial microbes by adding in your favorite amendments and fertilizers. I recommend using Espoma Tomato-tone, John and Bob's Optimize, Maximize and Nourish as well as some good, old fashioned compost. Just a handful of each and your tomato growth will be exponential!

tomatoplant 

Stake and support them right away:

Employ a LARGE stake or tomato cage. Grafted tomato plants can grow up to 30% larger than regular tomatoes so support is essential. If possible, look for stakes that are at least 8 feet tall and 2 inches in diameter. The average cone-shaped cage will NOT be enough to hold these plants up by harvest time. Install your support system right after you transplant your starts. This is to prevent root damage. As soon as a tomato is planted, it begins shooting out new roots horizontally across the soil. If you wait a few weeks to drive stakes into the ground around your start, you run a high risk of damaging those new roots. So, stake those tomatoes early using strong, sturdy support.

Pruning is recommended:

Prune to the fifth leave section then allow the plant to produce a second runner (allow a sucker to form a "V" and allow it to grow as a second main stem). Prune any lower branches keeping them away from the ground. These lower branches can root, effectively losing the benefit of the graft.

Use Large Containers: If you are planting these in containers, use one that a soil volume of at least 20 gallons. Remember larger the plant, larger the root system and grafted tomatoes have enormous root systems!

sgoto

Gotomato is the business and brainchild of Steve Goto, the Tomato King! Get more planting and growing tips on Steve's blog at Gotomato.us.com and stay tuned to my  Facebook page for more tomato advice!

Steve Goto has been highly influential in introducing heirloom tomatoes to the mainstream market. In the 1980’s, he single-handedly brought heirlooms to the forefront, in southern California, by growing and selling hundreds of varieties. Now, the market for heirlooms has grown tremendously. He is an experienced and highly-qualified tomato and gardening lecturer, as well! Steve tours the west coast, and places beyond, educating the masses on the wonders of tomatoes and other delicious plants. Steve lectures on organic growing techniques, insect and disease control, soil care and much more for not only tomatoes but eggplants, peppers and other heirloom and unusual vegetables.  

 

Preparing For Your Winter Vegetables

Written by whittier fertilizer

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Winter is rapidly approaching and those with vegetable gardens will need to be prepared to deal with the cold weather. Winter months can chill plants and kill any green life outdoors. There are vegetables that can be grown in the cool weather as well as fertilizer that is specifically designed for this often unforgiving time of year. Knowing what the best fertilizers for winter are and which vegetables can grow during this time of year can keep a garden fresh and productive. Some fertilizers can be custom made for those that are very serious about gardening and do not want to use anything that is pre-packaged.

Summer Pruning of Fruit Trees Keeps them the Right Size

Written by Ron Vanderhoff

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This past winter I wrote two columns about the proper pruning of stonefruits and other deciduous fruit trees. This important chore continues to be one of the more misunderstood gardening responsibilities. I still get comments from readers who say they enjoyed the articles. I promised then that I would mention the value of summer pruning at a later time.

In those original columns, written in December, I remarked that the objectives of summer and winter pruning are quite different, although both important.

Before you prune another branch on your peach, nectarine, plum, apricot, apple, persimmon, pluot, almond or other deciduous fruit tree, take a moment to learn about the unique pruning needs of these trees. Correct pruning will lead to healthier trees, strong structure and delicious yields for decades to come.

 

Time for Winter Pruning of Fruit Trees – Part Two

Written by Ron Vanderhoff Wednesday, 22 December 2010 00:00

Read Part One Of This Article Here.

Last week I tackled one of the most misunderstood home gardening chores - the pruning of stonefruits and other deciduous fruit trees. In that column I explained the purpose of winter pruning is to achieve a quality fruit and higher yield, not to control tree size, which is often attempted. Summer is when these trees should be pruned to restrict size. Cutting back these trees heavily in winter will not reduce the tree size; it only serves to eliminate most fruit production, while forever making a mess of the trees branching and structure.

As promised, this week I'll quickly explain the 1-2-3's of winter stonefruit and deciduous fruit tree pruning. I don't have space to go into too much depth, but I can at least provide a primer.

Pruning Peaches, Plums and Apricots

Written by Ron Vanderhoff Saturday, 11 December 2010 00:00

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Read Part Two Of This Article Here.

Pruning of stonefruits and other deciduous fruit trees is one of the most misunderstood of all gardening responsibilities.

In almost all cases, fruiting trees are pruned quite different than ornamental trees. Far too often I see fruit trees pruned completely wrong, either at the incorrect time of year, two heavily or two lightly, or in a manner that almost guarantees no fruit will be produced.

Stop. Before you prune another branch on your peach, nectarine, plum, apricot, apple, persimmon, pluot, almond or similar tree, take a few minutes to learn how these trees grow and how they actually produce their fruit. A few wrong cuts can nearly eliminate your crop, but an understanding of just a few basic needs of these trees can greatly increase both the quantity and quality of your fruit harvest. Furthermore, proper pruning will lead to a healthier tree, with solid structure and delicious fruit yields for decades to come.

 

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